TRAVELNEWSEDITOR — Bakso malang menjadi satu ikon dari daerah yang ada di Jawa Timur ini. Di Kota Malang sendiri terdapat banyak kuliner bakso aneka ragam dengan rasa yang berbeda-beda. Dari sejumlah bakso tersebut, bakso President menjadi salah satu bakso yang dikenal masyarakat.
Namanya mungkin banyak orang tahu, apalagi lokasinya berada di tepi rel kereta api memunculkan sensasi adrenalin saat menyantapnya. Kepopuleran bakso ini membuatnya kerap jadi langganan para artis dan pejabat ketika berkulineran bakso di Malang, salah satunya Gibran Rakabuming Raka.
Nama President sendiri ternyata diawali dari sebuah nama lokasi bioskop yang ada tak jauh dari lokasi bakso itu. Lokasinya tak jauh dari jalan raya yang menghubungkan antara Surabaya dan Malang, serta di belakang hotel berbintang terkemuka di Kota Malang.
Penanggungjawab Bakso President Ali Wahdani mengungkapkan, usaha Bakso President awalnya dirintis oleh seseorang bernama Abdul Goni Sugito. Awalnya Abdul Goni berjualan bakso di tahun 1977 dengan cara dipikul keliling Kota Malang.
Suatu ketika abah itu berhenti di depan sini (lokasi Bakso President) karena di tahun-tahun segitu anak-anak muda zaman itu nggak handphone, nggak ada hiburan jadi hobinya trek-trekan,” ucap Ali Wahdani.
Kebetulan lokasi yang dipakai nongkrong anak-anak muda dan balapan dahulu terdapat sebuah gedung bioskop legendaris bernama Bioskop President, alhasil kawasan itu pun disebut kawasan President. Lambat laun banyaknya anak muda yang nongkrong di kawasan Bakso President membuat dagangan bakso Abdul Goni Sugito yang awalnya bernama Bakso Manalagi, laris manis bak kacang goreng.
Awalnya dipikul, terus berhenti di sini akhirnya cocok, lumayan banyak yang beli di daerah sini akhirnya pindah ke gerobak dorong. Depan ini Bioskop President, treknya itu biasanya dari Bioskop Irama ke Bioskop President, makanya terkenalnya sini daerah President,” ujarnya.
Penamaan Bakso President sendiri dicetuskan Abdul Goni Sugito lantaran banyaknya pelanggannya yang menyebut bakso yang ada di daerah Bioskop President, dari sanalah nama Bakso Manalagi berganti menjadi Bakso President. Sayang Ali tak tahu pasti kapan Abdul Goni yang sudah dianggap seperti orang tuanya sendiri itu mengganti nama.
Baksonya malah namanya Bakso Manalagi, karena seringnya konsumen nyebut bakso yang ada di President, ini kan dulu bakso president. Akhirnya ganti nama jadi bakso President itu. President itu juga dari bahasa asing, tapi nggak tahu apa maksudnya dinamakan Bioskop President, yang jelas namanya itu,” jelasnya.
Beberapa tahun kemudian disebut Ali, Abdul Goni yang kerap disapanya Abah ini akhirnya pindah ke belakang Gedung Bioskop atau di tempat yang saat ini. Bioskop President kini pun berganti menjadi hotel berbintang di Malang.
Kalau yang gerobak masih yang di depan, terus pindah ke belakang ini pakai kayak tenda-tenda itu. Sudah lama itu, puluhan tahun pokoknya, persisnya lupa. Tapi sudah 45 tahun ini,” ungkapnya.
Sementara Ali sendiri turut membantu proses produksi Bakso President sejak tahun 1993. Saat itu ia yang masih duduk di bangku sekolah SMP berteman dengan anak Abdul Goni bernama Rohman Aji. Sejak saat itulah ia awalnya menyuplai daging bakso hingga akhirnya membantu proses produksi.
“Saya pegawai istilahnya yang diberi amanah ngawasin saja, temannya anaknya, berkecimpung di sini main-main SMP kelas 1, tahun 93 – 94 mulai di sini, mulai fokus membantu sendiri mulai 2013an. Kalau dulu saya nyuplai daging saja,” bebernya.
Kini bersama anak pembuat bakso President pertama Rohman Aji dirinya mengembangkan usaha bakso rintisan sejak tahun 1977. Memang secara lokasi hanya tiga gerai yang dibuka oleh Bakso President dan seluruhnya di Malang. Satu gerai bakso yang merupakan pusatnya sekaligus tempat memasak seluruh bakso berlokasi di pinggir rel kereta api.
“Dulu cabang di luar sempat ada, di Palembang sempat ada, Surabaya ada, Jakarta ada. Tapi kualitas kontrolnya susah, di Surabaya ngirimnya dari sini demi menjaga kualitas masakan,” tuturnya.
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